Mexico
Computers!
Creel
Horse riding
Train ride to Los Mochis
Los Mochis
Veracruz
Oaxaca
Tuxtla
Merida
Celistun
Merida again
Cancun
Hot to trot in Cancun
Chetumal on June 30 before heading to Belize
On to Belize
Back to New Orleans
Road map
Computers in mexico
We've been having real fun and games with the computers here - they're either very slow or keep cutting out so we haven't had much access to keep you up to date.
Index..
11th May, Creel
Have to be quick as the time is running down.
We are in Mexico now - I think possibly illegally as we did not manage to go through immigration coming out of the US nor into Mexico!!!!!
You might well ask how this might happen?? It just did.
We came across by bus into Mexico and somehow managed to avoid all immigration. We still haven't fixed it up yet but will visit the American embassy tomorrow (21st May) so that we don't go on the register of over-stayers just in case I ever want to go back there. The Mexican bit we'll discover (next Sunday) when we try to fly out to Cuba!!!! Fortunately we acquired visitor's cards in Darwin, so hopefully they don't notice there are no stamps on it. We're just going to shrug and say "no-one asked for our passports" or pretend we don't understand and see what transpires!
We got on a bus in El Paso to take us over the border to Juarez in Mexico. When we pulled into the official area we were told to line up with our bags and go through customs - it was Mexican - we just thought immigration would be the next stop but NO - the lack of language is making life a challenge, to say the least!!!!!
I'm glad I did a little bit before we left. It is hard work.
Actually El Paso in Texas might just have been Mexico as the influence is very strong and I think the majority of the area around are Mexican descent.
At he Travel Lodge re-fried beans for breakfast and Spanish speakers were definitely in the majority; a good introduction to Mexico.
The Sunday we were recuperating in El Paso from our long train trip from New Orleans we heard of a fund raising rodeo for the local children's hospital. It was very interesting, a Mexican rodeo.
There's always a "food" element in anything that is "great", so we had our first real taste for Mexican food. They somehow manage to put peeled mangos on sticks to make it easier to eat, I don't know about sprinkling them with chilli tho!
The Mexican "charros" or cowboys were all in their "dress". Those sombreros decorated with brocade etc, looking very macho as is their want. Looked just like I remember them being depicted in those western movies in the 60s. They went through their paces and lasso work.
The other half of the arena had a stage and Marichi bands were trying to compete with the rodeo compere it was bizarre set up.
I was amused, or slightly alarmed at the sign over the bar which stated, in Spanish, that it was not legal to carry firearms unless you had a licence. It all made me think of Pete Schoulal. He was getting experience in making documentaries by being part of, and filming the "Last great cattle drive" in 1988 when he died at Newcastle Waters, NT. He had wanted to ride the Andes with the gauchos and make a film.
Tell Peter I had good Mexican guacamole the other night - ALL avocado, very little onion and tomato!!!!!
We bused to Chihuahua and then took a train through the Sierra Madre down to the Pacific side - Spent a night at a place called Creel - went on a 4 horse ride up through the canyons - even galloped!!! About 30 years since I last even sat on a horse. Moira has been hobbling ever since - I seem to have remained unscathed!
Tomorrow, 12th is Moira's birthday and we fly to Mexico City and try to organise another flight to Chiapas-Yucatan. It is just too slow going by local bus and also very tiring.
Laurie has sent me an e-mail with all the hockey gossip!! Haven't seen your goals yet Rosy - get one for me!!
George has put some photos on the site, haven't looked at them yet - can you send this on to him so he can extract some info for the site - we are just not finding the time or the Internet cafes.
Chihuahua, central plateau, northern Mexico west, up a mountain range to 5,000 feet to Creel in the Sierra Madre by train (Chepe).
Creel was a dusty little town in the mountains, a bit like a ski resort minus the snow. It is the centre of the Tarahumara Indians, one of the few indigenous people who have been given some land. Mostly they live out of the town in caves in the mountains.
We were very quickly picked up by an up-market tout, Martin to find some accommodation, amongst his friends. To his disappointment we choice something cheap and not so nice which earnt him approx. 60 pesos ($12) commission.
Index..
The Horse Ride
He brightened up a bit when we said we would prefer to spend our money on an afternoon's horse ride, which he ran. Well you should have seen us go!! Our shy bilingual guide had near to non-existent English and was very cool in the saddle.
We tried to emulate him by nonchalantly loosely swinging our spare arm. All pretence disappeared as soon as there was even a hint of a trot and we were clutching on for dear life!!! We had a lot of therapeutic laughter.
Moira and her horse really did look very funny from the back while in the trotting mode!!! We went on a four-hour ride up Tararecua canyon to Rukireso waterfall. We had trouble getting off the horses to look at the view!!!!
After admiring the view and succeeding in getting back onto the horses I decided to try a gallop. No fool like an old fool but it wasn't me that fell off the horse; it was the owner! Moira said I looked impressive in the saddle!!!!!
Had my first guacamole that night - beautiful, and no additional extras to ruin the taste Peter!!!!
Dining in Mexico has been a bit of hit and miss. We're never quite sure what is going to turn up at the table. It is all a bit of a lesson in Spanish but the dictionary that I'm carrying is for Spain and does not seem to have some of the basic Mexican cooking terms.
Next day we organised a tour from Creel to the next town down the line, Divisadero, to get a better view of the Copper canyon. I gather Humphrey Bogart starred in a film of the same name so you should all rush out and get the video because our photos will be a while arriving for the site.
The view was limited due to bushfires but you could still appreciate the sight.
Again we had a non-English speaking guide, Manuel, who was a Tarahumara Indian. We managed to get some information (or maybe it was misinformation due to our poor skills at charades and Spanish) on the local indigenous people.
Index..
Train ride
We picked up our train at lunchtime not before trying out some of the local tucker. At the Divisadero railway station the local women set up food stalls for the travellers. Moira had her first stuffed chilli and I went for a quesadilla stuffed with pumpkin. The food here is fantastic, when we get it right!!! According to signs on the train there was no eating or drinking but as soon as we set off everyone produced their picnics and proceeded to eat. This didn't seem to disturb the guards. Another slightly disturbing fact about the train journey was the presence of armed guards to protect us in case of a bandito attack. Every time the train stopped they would be out checking. The local friendly security guard told me that there weren't many around these days.
The scenery from here down to the coast was spectacular and the railway line quite a feat of engineering George. You will get some photos. Lots of Ponderosa pines - very dry.
Index..
Los Mochis
The train is described in the tour books as one of the most spectacular train trips in the world and it did pass through some spectacular canyon areas.
It is also very dry and no rain yet so the area was incredibly dusty, and lots of smoke haze.
We broke the trip and went for an afternoons horse ride up a canyon.
Here it is Tarahunara country, one of the 51 indigenous groups still living in Mexico. They survived by moving up into the mountain passes and suffer all the same problems as Aboriginals. They mostly live in caves in the mountains.
We must have looked a sight on the horses tho. I think I haven't been on one since about 12 and it took a while to feel vaguely comfortable. A soon as it got to a trot I'd hold onto the pummel, it would have been more comfortable to hold onto the boobs!!
We went for a gallop which stirred up the adrenalin particularly when I lost the stirrup and then again when the owner took a tumble! His horse threw him off!!! Moira said I looked good, she just watched as she has had a recent horse fall in Aussie.
Before we left we went out for dinner for Moira's birthday and discovered a very nice salsa to make when I get back. It is made by boiling chilli, onion and salt, then vitamising, adding finely chopped coriander and lime and eating with corn chips - problem will be getting the right sort of chilli. The food here has been very good and interesting.
That night we arrived at Los Mochis, another dusty little town full of shoe stores!!!! We managed another brothel late at night!!
There is a problem when you don't have a guide and rely on the taxi drivers for cheap hotels.
Another eating experience occurred here. We found a real cafe that served up carrot cake and real cappuccinos for the first time in Mexico. You all know how important these things are to us!!
Organising a bus trip from here to anywhere seemed impossible so we decided not to waste time and fly Vera Cruz. It was taking so much time organising buses, trying to make connections etc and some of the info we are given is not very good (or we are just not understanding them properly).
The high point of Los Mochis was the cafe and a seafood restaurant we went to for Moira's 21st birthday (12th). We had a really delicious salsa dip - salt, chillies, onions and tomatoes boiled and then vitamised with fresh chopped coriander. This was served with corn chips and lime as an appetiser - YUM. For entree I had tacos stuffed with shrimp and coriander, delicious and Moira had oysters (not quite the same as home). For main we both chose fish, something like John Dory. Mine was with a coriander sauce and Moira's fish with a Portuguese sauce - all delicious. So much for my friend Kevin O'keefe from work telling me that the best Mexican available was in the USA.
The Mexicans win hands down in the food stakes we think.
Friday the 12th flew to Mexico City. I almost missed the plane because I decided on a loo stop. The plane was taxing in when I went off to find the loo and by the time I had finished my business the plane was almost ready to take off. Moira was looking a little worried. Couldn't believe the turn around time.
When we arrived in Mexico City on Friday the 12th and Moira's birthday, we immediately went through the hoops getting us onto another flight out that dayorganised to Vera Cruz. There was no way we were going to exit the airport!!!
Talking of firearms, booking in at the desk at the airport in Mexico city, the sign there said that no loaded guns were allowed to be in your luggage!!!!
Index..
12th May, Vera Cruz, Caribbean Coast (Moiras birthday)
Vera Cruz is on the Mexican gulf side of Mexico. It was green and hot and muggy, just like Darwin in December and lots of the same trees and plants. It is not a place that is frequented by many foreign tourists but certainly is by locals. It's a bit like a cross between Manly and the Gold Coast but not as tawdry. Lots of music and dancing in the streets. Marimba bands, wandering minstrels and another good coffee shop. I really liked the place.
The harbour is right in the town so that the big container boats and navy boats seem to be moored right in the place. On our last night there we caught the beginning of a Celia Cruz concert which they had on the wharf. The venue was fantastic - sunset, the concert started by all the boats in the harbour blowing their sirens, quite something.
Arrived in Vera Cruz to a particularly "Jane and Moira" type situation!!! Yet another conference in town and a shortage of beds!!!!! Fortunately we got a room at the Colonial Hotel in the Zocol (square). It was a little more expensive than we wanted but was OK. It had particularly comfortable cement based beds (Moira thought so anyway).
In the square there were cafes all around. Musicians playing, clowns, street hawkers and food. One could side at the sidewalk cafe sipping margheritas, having ones shoes shined, perusing the wares on sale by the hawkers, and if very keen having your blood pressure taken, ALL at the SAME time - very relaxing place. It was very cosmopolitan and very Spanish in architecture, very pretty.
Around the Zocolo there are marimba bands and wandering serenaders. If you like; they come and play at your table.
Vera Cruz is the main port on the Gulf for Mexico. It was incredible the way the ships were actually moored right at the wharves in town.
The Mercado (wharf area) and the Zocolo were the places to be. Lots of street action, food stalls, hawkers, stalls etc. Of course we soon found where the cafes and restaurants were found.
There are some more Saturday morning coffee shots to come as we feel we need to continue the Darwin tradition.
Moira has gone through contortions trying to get her pastries at morning tea. It seems to be standard fare for starters at breakfast but we just don't seem to be able to get it. Just when we think we have the right term in Spanish, it becomes something else.
Moira has kept me amused with her "psycho babble" ie. Her combination of ENGLISH, ITALIAN, FRENCH, talking hands and what is supposed to be Spanish - works sometimes but even I don't know what she is saying and I actually know what she wants.
Once again the food here is great. We inadvertently found the local's restaurant and dance club. Almost everyone, old and young had to get up and dance when the music played, we watched, no chivalrous men approached!
Once again the food was great garlic and chilli fish.
I can't get over the number of young lovers around the place, every time you turn around there is a couple in "deep throat". Moira has to keep dragging me away from seats because we're going to be intrusive!!
We decided one day to walk to one of their beaches: an interesting affair. Here when you go to the beach you drive your car onto the beach, down to the waterline and either set up your picnic table or use a palm thatched cabana on the sand.
If you use a cabana then you get a hammock and shade but you must buy refreshments from the owners.
The beaches here are similar to Darwin, not very nice (I think).
When we went to lunch at a local seafood restaurant a man at a neighbouring table had a "turn" which created some excitement. We're not sure if because of this the owner decided to treat us to one of their local drinks. This was pure alcohol, milk, nuts and soursop all vitamised together - Moira was soon up and dancing with the Carnival king (the owner)!!!!
After this performance he decided we should taste another of their local drinks despite our saying we might not be able to get ourselves home. This drink turned out to be, guess, yes pure alcohol, coconut and milk!!! Even I disgraced myself with a mutilated salsa of some sort!!!! The owner didn't tell me that I could dance but he did Moira!
Well at this point we were offered a lift home - the journey from hell, we survived the drive!!!!!!!!!!
We decided to leave for Oaxaca the next day by bus - another journey through hell!
We understood that buses left every hour but when we turned up at the bus station a bus did not leave until 2230 hours.
We killed the time by a boat trip on the harbour, yet another coffee stop at the Gran Cafe Parroquia (still no pastries) and a wander around the old town.
Down at the wharf their was an evening concert by Celia Cruz (please someone tell me who she is) from Cuba. It is a fantastic venue on the wharf, sunset and the crowd.
At 1900 all the boats in the port blew their sirens as a welcome and introduction to the evening. We were only able to stay for the first few songs, as we had to get back to the bus depot.
Yet again a good feed outside the station once we had delivered our bags. One of the very common food stalls around the place is the corn stall. Ears of corn are cooked in a boiler, then add mayonnaise, parmesan and chilli to it and munch!
Also had a great torta that was toasted bun with chicken, coriander, onion and cabbage - delicious - only cost a few dollars.
I sent off my third film from El Paso on Monday. I have finished another one but am holding it until? I'm really pleased with the photos because I was not sure I was using the camera well enough and there may have been movement.
This morning we caught the plane from Los Mochis to Mexico City. They always seem to be early morning starts and you know how much I enjoy those! When we investigated buses from there over to Yucatan it was going to take days and it is HARD WORK (possibly not as hard as going to work every day) particularly with our grasp of the Spanish language. It also involves long days and arriving at god forsaken places late and finding somewhere to stay etc. You end up being too tired to enjoy the pleasant bits.
We were desperate NOT to end up in Mexico City so flew on to Vera Cruz this afternoon. The climate is about the same as Darwin on a bad December day ie hot and humid.
It is very green and tropical, many of the same trees. I now know what the Indian almond tree looks like, I've never worked out which it was with the Leichardt trees.
Once again we seemed to have arrived in a town that is hosting yet more conferences and were told at the airport that accommodation would be difficult but after a taxi ride and drop off at the local square, we spied the Tourist Office and they pointed us at the Imperial Hotel, right on the square. This may be the Mexican version of New Orleans!
Index..
15-17 May, Oaxaca
That night we had a bus trip from hell: 2230 until 0530 (instead of 0800) to Oaxaca, southwest and at 4000 feet. We had the front seats so nowhere to stretch the legs!!!
Another great place - very cosmopolitan, a bit like Vera Cruz but not as brash, very pleasant, lots of 16th century buildings etc.
We came here to see the Zapotec ruins at Monte Alban and Mitla. Also have lots of chocolate. In the shop you can go in a select your cacao beans and your blend for grinding. It comes out as a chocolate mush, which they use to make their "mole" for cooking, or for drinks etc. Cacao, sugar, almond and cinnamon seem to be a very common blend.
Also lots of maguey cactus is grown in the region for mescal, the local poison, the one that has the grub in it!!
We were placed in a hot dormitory. On entering there was an overpowering odour of flatulence. Jane insisted on sleeping with the door open.
Oaxaca is situated at 4,00ft above sea level in the southern Serra Madra. It was a pleasant change to the hustle and bustle of Veracruz.
Oaxaca is very Spanish in look with some very old mid 16th century sandstone buildings (pink and green) on paved streets.
The regional cuisine started with a very nice unadulterated guacamole (Peter), fried crickets, cochineal beetles (which required a strong vitamin C drink to counteract the effects), mole negro (unsweetened chocolate which accompanies all dishes), tamales, fresh chocolate which is ground to your order of cocoa beans, sugar, cinnamon, and almonds.
Jane does not recommend crickets as a culinary craze for Darwin.
Jane is constantly amazed with the food handling techniques. While waiting for her dinner, she was watching the cook prepare the meal that was constantly dipped with the cooks’ finger to taste. This appears to contradict the purified water that is carted in all over the place.
Yet again we try the local regional brew (on behalf of our alcoholic friends). This time it is Mescal that is made from the maguey cactus. Before and after drinking the Mescal a bite of lime coated with a salt and chilli mix is chewed.
The markets have goods of black and green pottery (specific to the region), embroidery clothing, rugs, leather goods and jewellery of al sorts.
The first morning of our arrival, there was a demonstration by the local indigenous farmers in front of the government officers, which is situated in the main square. (We have since heard that demonstrations are common in Mexico. It could also be associated with the elections coming up.)
We attempted to buy a telegram from the postmaster. Jane gave a wonderful demonstration of the aerogram but to no avail. The next day we asked at the tourist office and the women who also demonstrated similar actions to that of Jane’s, finally disclosed that there have not been any for at least 20 years. (We are not insane after all).
The next day we went out to Mount Alban which contains a Zapotec city (500bc - 800ad. Although they have not been able to decipher the inscriptions, our vaguely speaking guide informed us that this site was a university and that the area was a main trade route. The stone reliefs depicting Jews, Syrians, Chinese and Polynesians explained the trade route.
Other stone reliefs showed obstetric complications of breach births and Caesarean sections (mushrooms were used as anaesthesia). Other parts of the area were for astronomy with the stones aligned to equinox. Apparently this gave direction as to their planting.
The Zepotecs defined zero in their maths and had the concept that the world was round.
Recovering from the arduous morning at the ruins, Jane had a beer (wine os too expensive so she is acquiring a taste for beer) and Moira a margarite.
Moira had her shoes (half) cleaned by a young boy. It cost her $6.50 plus a coke and 1/2 the guacamole.
Further experiments with the cuisine lead to Moira receiving some unidentifiable seafood. The women said that they bought their squid in fillets. Jane thinks it was dugong.
On the second day we visited more ruins at Mitla (500ad-600ad) which is known for their stone mosaics.
The ruins contained ¨greek¨colomns and some of the mosaics were of Greek design. The church has been built over the ruins and has used some of the stones from the ruins. Christianity has incorporated some of the indigenous rituals.
As you walk through the streets you can hear the weaving looms working. The stalls sell larger cloth items and jewellery and Mescal.
Tomorrow we take a bus to Tutxla in Chiapas. We'll leave here to the next town.
We have another 4 rolls of film may send them from Cancun in a weeks time.
After a traumatic trip on the bus we arrived at the ungodly hour of 05.30. Two stunned mullets, sitting on the footpath were approached by a young girl advertising accommodation at a hostel. We caught the taxi to the hostel and could not get our own room until 11.00.
Index..
18 May, Tuxtla
A long (11hrs) bus trip to Tuxtla leaving at 9.30 with 2 kung fu movies (wonderful). We came down through the mountains with steep passes and winding roads.
There were cacti flowering and Maguey plantations.
On the coastal planes, which were hot and steamy, we were held up by another demonstration that appeared to be controlled by the village women.
This became another Monty Python episode as the driver took us four-wheel-driving in an area he did not know. Back on the main road we moved up into the mountains again and noticed a lot of slashing and burning, potential mud slides in the wet. Jane wants everyone to plant more trees.
Arrived in Tuxtla about 21.00. Dinner was with a couple of Mexican teachers who were in Tuxtla for another demonstration.
The food was tacos with an onion and coriander (salad?), guacamole served with rice water and cinnamon which Jane made comments about it tasting like medicine. She was promptly given a sweetened orange juice.
Index..
20th May, Saturday, Merida in Yucatan
Another bus journey (15 hrs) to Merida through mountains and onto the plains of Yucatan.
We passed through the Chipas that is known for political activity than other areas. There were more stops by the military asking for passports. Jane and Moira managed to be bypassed as Jane tried to blend in with the crowd.
There were many road works on the way and the air conditioning was terrible. On the planes were corn and rice.
We are staying at the Hotel Delores Aldo which is a lovely Spanish style building around the courtyard and pool. (Reminds Moira of the Levuka Hotel.) Merida is a very busy commercial town with lots of artesian shops and stalls.
We had a 172-hour discussion with a storeowner while Moira was looking a shawl. It provided us with some insight in the Merida´s history, Jewish control of the world economy, Mexican and US politics (Bill Clinton, political correct terms such as archaeological monuments/ruins), and told us that Merida has the purest form of Spanish in the world (so we should be studying Spanish here and not Cuba).
It turned out that the storeowner is of Lebanese descent. His mother is half something and his father was Lebanese. Apparently there is a large Lebanese fraternity in Mexico, mainly in Merida. It was him who told us we shouldn't call them ruins.
Some of his father's family is in Australia so he wants to visit. Actually it's funny but he's not the typical Sydney "Lebanese" we have in Australia, maybe the Mexican influence has created a very different subculture. It's the first time we've been able to have a decent conversation about the country with a local it was quite interesting, particularly his thoughts on the USA. Apparently there are vigilante ranchers in Arizona who catch Mexicans who manage to cross the border illegally, and occasionally they shoot them too!! As he said, the Mexicans in the USA due all the menial work and paid peanuts to allow the others to live comfortably. Anyway.....
An expensive coffee experience commenced with a friendly greeting from a man who invited us into his shop "to look, not buy".
Two hammocks, a Panama hat and a silver bracelet later, Jane and I decided to have some real coffee that was also expensive. The shop also contained some lovely ceramics that have been hand painted.
There is nothing cheap ion Mexico. The prices are comparable to Australia so nothing is particularly cheap unfortunately.
I wish the Aussie dollar would pick up. I read in an English printed newspaper the other day that the US were going to be increasing their interest rates again, what has Australia done, any interest rate hikes their? What is the exchange rate with the US$ at the moment? The Aussie dollar doesn't feature here at all.
I really like Mexico. It is much more sophisticated than I was aware of before coming here, occasionally I find myself thinking I'm in Spain!
That evening we attended the last part of soem Avante Garde dance. Jane felt that the dance was more avant garde in concept with a cross dresser showing his or her genitals. We had a late dinner at a disco (Latin dance music) which was a ladies night (every night) you get two drinks fro the price of one. We tried lime soup, which was a chicken broth with tortilla bits, and very little lime.
After dinner we had coffee at another cafe across the square which had folk classical music (a nice change). Jane didn’t get into bed until 1.00am (can you believe this!!!)
We are in Merida, Yucatan, so we can visit the Mayan ruins here. Apparently the Mexican government has decreed that they are not to be called "ruins" but archaeological monuments, so they have political correctness too.
I was hoping to buy some silver but it's much cheaper in Indonesia.
Actually I haven't heard any Australian news since we left home other than Alison telling me that the budget was brought down, but nothing interesting there. I guess you're getting all the GST build up now.
I'm glad that I learnt a little Spanish before I left as it has helped a little but it is very frustrating at times, and a little boring not being able to have intelligent conversations with the locals. You miss a lot of what is going on around you. A lot of Mexicans learn English at school, I guess just like we learnt French, but it only translates into the very basic. Between our little Spanish and their little English we get through the basics!
They are very friendly and helpful people. Moira and I don't seem to be pestered as all the tour books would suggest. Must be the advantage of age!!! I think they are a little bemused by us, and don't quite understand why we might be travelling around rather than being at home etc It mostly translates into concern and helping us.
A security guard on the train down through the Sierra Madre said we were very brave! When we first got on the train I thought he was eyeing us over, looked a bit sleazy. I discovered him standing out on the carriage inter-link when trying to get a photo, and he struck up a conversation with me. I was a little nervous when he started asking questions. I thought he was asking me if Moira and I were together (???) and I went into my widow story and Moira was separated!!! nothing like leaving yourself open - in retrospect I think he was asking me if we were travelling on our own.
When we arrived at Los Mochis at 2100 hours he was looking concerned that we had nowhere to stay and were trying to get info from a non-English speaking taxi driver. That's another very obvious thing here, the number of security guards, military and unidentifiable others in uniform around the place carrying guns. The fellow on the train said that they were guarding the train from banditos!! Not many these days. From El Paso we came down to Chihuahua by bus and hopped on the train to Los Mochis that is close to the Pacific coast.
We're having a few days here to go out to look at some Mayan ruins - I'm learning lots about this side of the world - feel so ignorant sometimes - makes you realise how insular our life is sometimes.
Index..
21st, Sunday, Celistun
Sunday a local bus to a coastal town of Celistun to see flamingos. Along the way there were Mayan or Yucitan style houses with lime stone walls and thatched roofs.
It was great being out on the water. The scenery was similar to Darwin Harbour with the mangroves. The trip reminded us of George’s crabbing trips and the bone jarring trips in Coburg. What saved the jarring were the plastic seats (George you need to put plastic seats in the boat!!!) We shared the boat with a Mexican family consisting of a grand mother, grandson and unmarried aunt (Jane showed solidarity by declaring her social or cultural status (??) ie unmarried)
There was a small colony of flamingos of various ages shown by the colouration of white, grey and pink.
Another colony of larger birds were drying their wings by rotating their wings to expose either the upper or under part of their wings which looked like a yoga pose. (George you will need to name them when you get the photos).
Information on this trip was restricted as we had a non-English speaking guide and a young boy learning English trying to do some interpretation. The trip also incorporated a fresh water spring (ceynote) in which Jane provided some entertainment by changing in and out of her bathers behind a sarong.
Another site included a Petrified Forest that was a mango and sapote orchard destroyed by salination. On return to Merida, our friendly salesman who encouraged us to watch the Yucitan dancing which obviously has some Spanish influence greeted us.
Hi George. While you were out mud-crabbing, we were out in an equivalent environment looking at flamingos at a place called Celestun on the Caribbean coast. We were thinking of you yesterday as the mangroves reminded me of Darwin harbour and mud crabbing and then coming back in the boat it was a little rough and I thought of your rides back to the huts at Coburg where you love to thump us to pieces in the bow!!!! At least here we were in seats which made it a little more comfortable.
When we got back to the beach we had crab salad for lunch ($12) which was all meat, and very generous servings, none of that having to extricate the flesh from the shell, you'll have to improve the service George!
The blue swimmers aren't nearly as sweet as our muddies, not much beats them.
It is fairly standard to serve most meals with a combination of fresh coriander, onion and lime, which I really like. Maybe it was a little overpowering for the subtle flavour of the crab.<
Index..
23rd May, Merida
Moira appears to attract the dregs. A drunk supposedly French Canadian tried to woo her to have some "fun" with him as he was a rich single man. Jane decided to leave Moira but was soon called back. He did not appreciate Jane’s rejection of his help to assist us with our immigration problems. He finally took the hint and left.
Monday we have cleared our US immigration problem through private security guards.
Our plans are to bus to Chichen Itza to watch the night show at the ruins. In the morning walk through the ruins and find a way to Rio Lagartos where there is a larger flamingo colony.
We are off to Cancun on Saturday and Cuba on Sunday.
Index..
27 May, Cancun
Then for a little extra insight into the Mayans we walked the 1.5 km to the site for the Sound and Light show. It was interesting but nothing really special.
The following morning we went out there again, with our backpacks, for a proper tour of the place.
It's amazing what they built with stone implements only. Also amazing is the alignment of their observatory and pyramids for the winter and summer solstice. Where was Europe when all this was happening? The Dark Ages!
Of course I'd heard all this before but when you see the place it's pretty amazing.
Having "ruined" ourselves out we jumped a bus and have been out in the "boondocks" watching flamingos again. We'll probably have to delete most of the photos that I took in my enthusiasm!!
We're sending off another three rolls of film tomorrow, as it is not feasible to send mail in Cuba from all we've been told by passing travellers.
The other thing is we were told that unless you go to 5 star hotels there is no Internet access so we may be incommunicado for the time.
We fly out on Sunday. Will try to get on tomorrow.
Index..
28 May, Cancun
George; I can tell you now without even having tasted the Mexican chocolate I was going to send you that Lindt chocolates would beat it hands down, no worries! It was really the thought and the fact that you can stand there in the shop and watch them grind up the cacao beans, sugar and whatever other flavouring you might like and pick up the end product!
We are sheltering from the sun at the moment, approx 1230 hrs, in an internet cafe. Yesterday we went down to one of the beaches in the "hoteleres" zone where it is back to back resorts, and I'm looking a
bit like a lobster even tho I thought I was being exceptionally cautious! We'll go down after peak heat.
The colour of the water and sand is beautiful: blues, green, clear and white sand. It's just a pity about all the tourists! Apparently Cancun is the busiest airport in Mexico after Mexico city. Lot's of package holidays, even worse than Bali.
It's also very expensive. I went into a clothes shop this morning and the shorts I liked were about
$50AUD where you might buy the same thing in KMart for $15-20.
One of the tour operators we met on our way to breakfast this morning also told us that he organises "gigolos". Of course I asked for a look at his photo album, much to Moira's consternation, but he said he would only give more info if we were serious!!! He told Moira that gigolos are only for middle aged women with money - what does this say about us?????
We are in Cuba for 4 weeks - so will see what happens as far as communications go.
We sent three more rolls of film this am. The postie said they should take three weeks to get to Australia. You should receive roll three any time now. The next four should be in a few weeks and then
another set of three.
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Fri 30 June, Chetumal
This is written after returning from Cuba and before heading to
Belize.
Bugger the salsa or the cha cha George - I'm too anally retentive!!
We only ended up having two days at Tulum, as the beach huts were very basic. There was no electricity, no windows, and it is unsafe to leave doors open, etc. I must be getting old for the simple life!!!
The scenery was very pretty but there was a lot of rubbish on the beach and it was all much more expensive than anticipated.
We might spend a few extra days on an island off Belize, if we like it. Trouble is we're getting into tourist season, even tho the weather is very hot and sticky, and lots of Europeans and Americans around.
Sounds like we have some fantastic places to visit in the next few months.
We go into Belize tomorrow.
Today I lost our "kitty" purse that had money and our bus tickets in it. Think it may have been lifted while having lunch at a vegetarian restaurant here - teach us to think healthy!! We've had two vegetarian meals in Mexico and both have been dismal failures - won't try it again until in Europe!!
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